For many, wearing a suit is an act performed daily mainly for work reasons. For others, it is simply a casual dress for a special reason. Anyways, we all want to be perfect when it comes to wearing a suit.
Well, for everyone, we have created this special in which we go through eight style guidelines, the 'rules' that we cannot skip when it comes to wearing a suit. Eight Essential sartorial style guidelines and with which we will make a difference. Without a doubt, the definitive tailoring decalogue.
Table of Contents
Choose the fitting appropriate
It is the first thing you should think about when dressing a suit. What is the cut that suits me the most, what is it the fitting that best suits me figure. We could divide the fittings in three large differentiated blocks: regular fit or classic cut, slim fit or fitted silhouette cut and finally skinny fit or very tight cut. In the special post on how to dress well we did a review of the main cuts explaining them in detail. If you choose the fitting ideal you already have half of the work done.
Choose your exact size
How do I know if my jacket suits me? The most important thing in a suit jacket is the shoulders. If they stick out, you need fewer sizes. The shoulder pad of the suit must fall on the natural shoulder and, in addition, it must be just above it without protruding excessively. In addition, you should be able to fasten the button without problems.
For, the pants, the right thing is that they make a single fold when trying them on the shoe. Although, it is true, that lately suits with a very close hem and flush with the shoe have become fashionable. In addition, it must be taken into account that today many brands have two trouser length measurements that are usually marked with the letter R, regular or standard length; and L, as the longest measurement. Thus, for example, a man of about 70 kg and a height of 170 centimeters would wear a size 40R of pants, while if he were a man of about 75 kilos about 185 centimeters in height, he would wear a 40L.
Despite this nuance, there are those who may need to alter the garment in the event that they cannot find the most suitable length for their particular measure. Fitting the bottom of the pants to our exact measurement will make it look perfect for our height and not as if they had lent it to us.
Leave the last button of the jacket open
There is a mnemonic rule that works to remind us of how to fasten a suit jacket. In a three-button jacket - the most classic - we must always fasten the top one, sometimes the middle one and never the bottom one. Although, since the most popular suits today are the two-button ones, we will always close the top one and leave the bottom one open. In the case of single button jackets - which usually occur in the most modern and cut suits skinny fit - it remains always closedunless we sit down, which brings us to the next point.
Unzip the button to sit
It is important when sitting that Let's undo all the buttons on the jacket even if it seems to us that we are more comfortable or favored than with them fastened. Conversely, if you wear a suit with matching vest, the buttons of the same will always remain all fastened, whether you are sitting or standing, as we see in the image on these lines. This small detail makes the difference between a man who knows how to wear a suit and one who is not used to doing so.
Pay attention to the shirt sleeves
Neither should the entire cuff of the shirt protrude, nor, on the contrary, should the jacket cover the entire cuff. It is appropriate that the shirt protrudes at least one finger, which would be more or less a couple of centimeters. This would indicate that the length of the jacket sleeves is appropriate for our size.
Today, Within the same jacket size, many brands have two sizes or even three in length. For example, if our jacket size is 48S, it means that it is the shortest within this size, the next size would be 48R, which would indicate the regular or standard length and, finally, 48L which would indicate that it is the size plus long of all 48.
Accessories: the just and necessary
With the subject of accessories you have to be very fair and precise, that is, less is more usually works when we wear a suit. In addition to the tie, the bow tie or the lapel handkerchief, there are other types of accessories such as lapel pins, tie clips, or cufflinks. With these accessories you have to be cautious as they can recharge a lot the cool and, in the case of using them, it is better opt for sober and minimalist designs - like the ones we show below these lines - instead of being ostentatious with big and baroque accessories.
In any case, if, for example, we choose a very striking tie, the lapel handkerchief, in the case of wearing it, it is more recommended that it be in a neutral tone and to be able to be smooth. If, on the other hand, you have chosen very showy cufflinks, decline the use of a tie bar or a lapel pin. In the mean is the measure. Try to create a balanced balance and that the accessories do not overshadow the suit but enhance it. When in doubt, choose a good tie and forget about the rest.
How to combine the shoes with the suit
Matching shoes to suit color It is one of the most important points and, for many, it is usually a real headache. Therefore, we present all possible shoe combinations with a basic range of suits that every man should have.
In general, for suits in black, only matching shoes tend to look good, that is, in black. With dark gray suits, shoes in black or dark brown go well. For its part, in medium gray suits we can wear shoes in black, dark brown, light brown or even camel and beige. With suits in medium blue, shoes in black, dark brown, light brown or caramel look good. Finally, for suits in earth tones we bet on shoes in dark brown, beige or dark blue. Regarding the belt, to get it right for sure, it is best to combine it with the same color of the shoe.
Pay attention to the little details
Clean, polished and shiny shoes are essential when it comes to wearing a suit. These can change the overall view of your cool if they are not in good condition. Before you get dressed, do not forget to polish your shoes or change the laces if they are old. Also check that the knot of the tie is well done and that the tie is centered right in the center of the shirt covering the entire row of buttons.
Oh, and very important! make sure you have removed all factory seams and that serve to close the openings on the back of the jacket. It seems obvious but there are men who, not used to wearing suits, think that these sewing are on purpose, and as you know it is about basting that makes the garments not deformed when they arrive at the store.
Details like the ones we propose can make you look like a dandy or, on the contrary, like an upstart who does not know how to dress in a suit. In addition to these little details, attitude is very important and makes a difference, walking in a straight position and with an upright posture will make your suit look in all its splendor.