Types of morning coat, choose the one you like the most

Chaqué

Talk about the types of morning coat It means entering the world of male tag. However, his name derives from the French dust jacket, which, in turn, comes from the doublet or check worn by the peasants of that country in the past.

It has a long history that we will go into below. But, over time, it has become the clothing appropriate for ceremonies and formal events that are celebrated for the day. On the other hand, for the night it is more appropriate the tailcoat, another distinguished garment. Next, we are going to show you the different types of morning coats so you can choose the one you like the most. But first let's get to know this garment better.

Brief history of the morning coat

Classic morning coats

The morning coat was widely worn at the beginning of the 20th century.

Curiously, at first the jacket was not considered formal. Its origin is in Britain at the beginning of the 19th century. So, it was used to to ride a horse because it facilitated posture by being open at the back. It arrived in men's dressing rooms to replace the typical jacket of the late 18th century.

In fact, in paintings of the time that depict hunts, it is common to find figures on horseback dressed in red morning coats and black pants. It was not until the thirties of the 20th century when they began to wear gray morning coats, that later they would go black that we know today.

Precisely, when used by English gentlemen, the morning suit became identified with the maximum expression of elegance. For this reason, it became common clothing in some weddings, receptions y other etiquette acts. Today it is the most used costume in the world for this type of events regardless of the country's culture. On the other hand, before entering into the different types of morning coats, we must talk to you about the parts That composes.

Parts of this garment

Bekham in morning coat

Former footballer David Beckham in a morning suit

Over time, the morning coat has also been enriched with different types of fabrics. It is currently being prepared wool, cheviot or cold wool depending on the time of year in which it will be used. And it is made up of several parts.

The most important one is the frock coat or long jacket, which reaches the back of the knee. However, in the front area it only has one button at stomach level. For their part, the lapels are slightly pointed. As for the colors, it can be black or gray and, in the latter case, of a tan or dark type. Regarding its shape, it must have it from S, that is, tightening at the waist and falling more freely afterwards. This is very important because, otherwise, it would seem out of step with the shape of the body and would have a bad effect.

For its part, vest that goes under the frock coat can be straight or crossed. Originally, it was also black or gray, but currently it accepts other, even more cheerful colors. However, we advise you to avoid prints or fantasy type ones. Don't forget that this is a wardrobe with strict etiquette.

People in morning coats

Guests in morning suits at a Swedish royal wedding

As for the Shirt, it is traditional white poplin with cuffs prepared to insert cufflinks. However, equally, in recent years the striped type in blue and white has also been accepted, although with the collar in the latter color. Regarding the collar, it must also be classic and without buttons to place underneath. tie.

She also has her rules. The traditional tie is smooth and gray. However, once again, other more cheerful tones are now allowed, as long as we do not fall into stridency. For example, oblique stripes. Likewise, it has to be wide, never narrow, and with windsor knot. As you know, the simple triangle that forms a symmetrical triangle is given this name.

We now arrive at pants. This is, traditionally, gray with thin black stripes and high waist. But other printed shapes are also very popular with him, such as, for example, the Crow's foot. In addition, it includes an English fold, that is, forward and does not have pins at the waist. In fact, the belt is prohibited with the morning coat. Instead, you can put buttons to fasten the straps. Finally, as with the tuxedo and other formal garments, it is never cuffed at the bottom nor can it fall over the shoe.

Accessories that are worn with a morning coat

Oxford shoes

Oxford shoes are perfect for different types of morning suits

The above garments are the basic ones that make up the different types of morning coats. But, you can also include accessories that will highlight your clothing even more and give you elegance and distinction. Thus, shoes must be Oxford type, black and leather. They must have a slight shine, rather matte, and never be made of patent leather, as this is reserved for the tailcoat or tuxedo. Another possibility is shoes. monkstrap type. In case you don't identify them, we will tell you that these are the ones that have a single or double buckle and are somewhat less formal than the previous ones.

Meanwhile, the Socks they must also be black and thread, while you can add a white scarf in the top pocket of his frock coat. It should preferably have a straight shape and protrude no more than a centimeter, although you can also give it a U shape.

Previously, we have talked to you about the cufflinks on the cuffs of the shirt. If you take them, let them be black and rounded. Also, you can place a pin in the tie. It will give a touch of elegance to the whole. On the other hand, this garment does not accept insignia or decorations.

As we told you, the jacket is a formal garment designed for the day. On the other hand, at night, the protocol indicates that it is more appropriate the tailcoat. However, the uses have become less rigid and now it is not strange to see the first, for example, in night weddings. But more important is that you know its different types.

Types of morning coat

Morning coat in a museum

Traditional morning coat exhibited in a museum

Although new features have been introduced in this garment in recent years, traditionally two types of morning coats are distinguished: normal and english. The first of them has as a distinctive feature that the frock coat reaches precisely to the hamstring, that is, the back of the knee. In addition, it is black, while the pants combine gray with equally black stripes.

Instead, english morning coat It has other characteristics. Its most notable feature is that the frock coat has better length. Furthermore, this and the pants usually match in color and, as for the tones, it admits greater variety. It can be black, grey, navy blue or ink blue. We could tell you that it is designed for brides and grooms or young guests who care about elegance, but also want to show a modern touch.

This leads us to talk to you about another form of morning suit that has been widely used in recent years. Its about Italian morning coat or semi-morning coat. As its name indicates, it is characterized by a shorter and fitted frock pattern, as well as by equally tighter pants. Furthermore, the etiquette rules he claims are different from those of the previous ones.

When a groom wears a morning coat, he should too the godfather and the witnesses, being optional for the closest guests. On the other hand, the semi-tailcoat does not obligate any of the attendees, who can wear a simple suit of pants and jacket.

Differences between morning coat and tailcoat

tailcoats

Yale students dressed in tails

To finish our article on the types of morning coat, we will explain to you what the main differences are between it and the tailcoat, as they are often confused as they are very similar. Mainly, these occur in the frock coat. The first one is short and shapely in the front. On the other hand, the rear has a skirt divided into two parts rounded. For its part, the one in the tailcoat has the silk lapels and, in front, it is shorter and has horizontal shape, while the rear skirts have it peak.

As well the pants shows differences in one and another clothing. The one in the morning coat is usually Charcoal gray with black vertical stripes, while that of the tailcoat is black and with a narrow strip of silk or satin on its sides. For his part, the vest of the first can be gray or black, straight or crossed. On the other hand, the one in the tailcoat is always ivory piqué.

Furthermore, the distinctions between morning coat and tailcoat extend to what is worn around the neck. The first always requires silk tie and with tones that match the vest. As for the second, it requires bow tie, also made of white piqué so that it also matches the vest. Finally, the shoes for the morning suit should be, as we have already told you, Oxford or monkstrap type, made of matte black leather. However, with the tailcoat they wear shiny shoes to make them shine more and with laces.

In conclusion, we have shown you the types of morning coat and what are its characteristics and differences with respect to the frac, which is the other quintessential formal attire. In this sense, always remember that the first is indicated for weddings and ceremonies at daytime, while the second is carried out in protocol acts at night. Although neither one nor the other is used daily, if you have any of these events, be encouraged to try them. you will feel elegant and distinguished.


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