Protocol and etiquette (III): The tuxedo

New article on protocol in the men's wardrobe. This time it is the turn of the tuxedo, suit to wear at parties in the late afternoon (from 8 o'clock or so) or during the night. A perfect option for night events that come with the arrival of Christmas. It is a party dress and not a ceremony dress, although in other Spanish-speaking countries this type of distinction is not made. Therefore its use in weddings is not contemplated in the protocol, although the new trends bet on it. In Britain it is known as dinner jacket o black tie and in America like tuxedo o tux.

Its origin dates back to the end of the XNUMXth century, when Henry Poole & Co produced a tuxedo jacket for the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII, to dress him at informal parties. The main garment that make up the suit are the following:

  • Jacket: the most common is black, but dark blue, maroon or white is also allowed, depending on the place and time of year. Can be single or cross, with round lapels with high opening, in silk or shiny satin. The simple jacket will have only one button and is worn compulsory with sash or vest. It can be worn open or closed, although the open option is preferable when wearing a vest. The double-breasted jacket does not have a sash or vest.
  • Pants: It must be of the same fabric as the jacket and the same color, except the white, summer and half-dress tuxedo, which is worn with black pants. It has a ribbon of the same material as the lapel of the jacket on the side.
  • Shirt: mainly White or of a very light color, of low collar for bow tie and double cuff for cufflinks.
  • Bow tie: you should go in proportion to the lapels of the jacket and it will be of the same material as these, usually silk. Mainly it will be black and bow, although made ones are also allowed.
  • Sash: silk or satin and in the same color as the bow tie. If you use a sash, you cannot wear a vest.
  • Vest: it is admitted straight and crossed. It will have lapels and will be made of the same material as the jacket and pants or entirely made of silk. The choice of sash or vest is personal, although the vest option is more informal.
  • Shoes: black laces and obligatorily patent leather or shiny leather. The socks will be black and made of thread or silk.

The tuxedo admits other accessories such as handkerchief, which will be white on thread or cotton, or gloves, in raw or gray suede or leather.

The white jacket should only be worn in summer or spring, and generally in open spaces.
The tuxedo should not be worn with a tie.


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